Bermuda grass care for North Texas: the month-by-month guide.

A good Bermuda lawn isn't luck — it's a schedule. Follow this calendar and you'll have the thickest, greenest yard on the block by June. Skip a step and you'll spend August fighting weeds.

Why Bermuda is king in North Texas

Bermuda is a warm-season grass that loves heat, full sun, and sandy or loamy soil. In other words — exactly what Fort Worth gives it. It's tough, drought-tolerant, and recovers from foot traffic better than any other grass we run into. The tradeoffs: it goes dormant (brown) in winter and it refuses to grow in shade.

If your yard gets less than 6 hours of direct sun, Bermuda will thin out no matter what you do. That's a St. Augustine or Zoysia yard. Everybody else — Bermuda is your grass.

What Is the One Thing Most Lawn Companies Get Wrong?

Mowing height. It's the single most important decision in Bermuda care, and most "mow and blow" outfits get it wrong because they use one setting for every yard on their route.

Your mower blade should be sharpened every 20–25 hours of use. A dull blade tears grass instead of cutting it — you can see the difference the next morning, when the tips look whitish-brown instead of green.

What Does the Month-by-Month Bermuda Grass Calendar Look Like?

How Do You Wake Up Bermuda Grass in March?

• First mow — scalp at 1–1.25" to remove dead thatch and expose soil to sun. Only once, only in early March.
• Pre-emergent herbicide — apply when soil temps hit 55°F for 3 straight days. Critical for crabgrass and goosegrass prevention.
• Soil test — get a $15 test from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. You'll use the results all year.

How Do You Manage Bermuda Green-Up in April?

• Raise mower to 2" and return to a weekly schedule
• First fertilization — 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. Slow-release works best in North Texas.
• Watch for spring dead spot — brown patches that didn't green up with the rest of the lawn

How Do You Care for Bermuda During the May–August Growing Season?

• Mow weekly at 2–2.5". Don't skip — the 1/3 rule matters (never cut more than 1/3 the blade in a single mow)
• Water 1" per week total, ideally in two deep 0.5" sessions, not daily sprinkling
• Fertilize again in June — half the rate, so 0.5 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft
• Spot-spray broadleaf weeds on calm, 80°F+ days

What Is the September Final Push for Bermuda Grass?

• Last nitrogen application by Labor Day. Later and you'll push growth into the cold, which invites disease.
• Apply fall pre-emergent around October 1 to block winter weeds (poa annua, henbit, chickweed)

How Do You Wind Down Bermuda Care in October–November?

• Keep mowing until growth stops, gradually raising height to 2.5"
• Overseed with rye for winter green — optional. Most lawns do fine dormant.
• Apply potassium (0-0-60) in late October to boost winter hardiness

What Bermuda Grass Care Is Needed December–February?

• Stay off it — dormant Bermuda bruises easily under foot traffic
• Plan March pre-emergent. Soil temp tracking matters — follow AgriLife's weekly updates.

How Deep Should You Water Bermuda Grass?

The biggest lawn-watering mistake in Fort Worth is frequency, not volume. Bermuda wants 1" per week total — but applied in 2 deep sessions, not 5 shallow ones. Deep watering drives roots down 6–8 inches; shallow watering keeps them at 2 inches, where they fry in a July heat wave.

To calibrate, put 3 empty tuna cans around your yard, run the sprinkler, time how long it takes to fill each to 0.5". That's your per-session run time. Water before 10am, never evening (wet overnight = fungus).

How Many Fertilizer Applications Does Bermuda Grass Need?

Bermuda in North Texas needs three fertilizations a year — see our when to fertilize your lawn for exact dates. More isn't better — over-fertilized Bermuda grows fast but weak, with thatch buildup and disease issues.

• April: 1 lb nitrogen / 1,000 sq ft (slow-release)
• June: 0.5 lb nitrogen / 1,000 sq ft
• Late August: 0.5 lb nitrogen / 1,000 sq ft

If your soil test showed low potassium or iron, add those separately. Most North Tarrant County clay soils are adequate on phosphorus but low on iron — that's why a lot of Bermuda lawns look "yellow-green" instead of deep green.

Why Does Timing Beat Product for Bermuda Weed Control?

Two pre-emergent applications, timed correctly, will eliminate 90% of weed problems for the entire year:

• Spring pre-emergent: when soil temps hit 55°F (usually late February / early March in Fort Worth)
• Fall pre-emergent: around October 1, when soil temps drop through 70°F

Spot-spray the weeds that slip through with a post-emergent in early morning on calm, 75–85°F days. Don't spray new Bermuda growth in early April — it's sensitive.

What Are Common Bermuda Grass Problems and How Do You Fix Them?

Why Does My Lawn Green Up Everywhere Except One Patch?

Spring dead spot. It's a fungal disease that kills the crown over winter. Fix: fall-applied fungicide in a future year; core aerate the dead spot now and sprig in fresh Bermuda.

Why Is My Bermuda Grass Yellow-Green Instead of Dark Green?

Iron deficiency. Apply chelated iron (FerroMax or equivalent) at label rate. You'll see color deepen within 7 days.

Why Does My Bermuda Grass Have Too Much Thatch?

Over-fertilized and under-mowed. Dethatch (or better, core aerate) in early spring, and drop nitrogen by 25% next season.

Why Are There Brown Streaks Right After Mowing?

Dull mower blade. Sharpen it. This is why we sharpen blades every Monday morning.

How Do You Identify and Treat Spring Dead Spot in Bermuda Grass?

Spring dead spot is the most common and frustrating Bermuda grass disease in North Texas. It appears as circular dead patches — ranging from the size of a dinner plate to several feet across — that fail to green up when the rest of the lawn comes out of dormancy in April. These patches often have a distinctive crispy, tan appearance at the center and may show some partial green-up around the perimeter. The disease is caused by a soilborne fungus (Ophiosphaerella species) that attacks Bermuda roots and crowns during fall and winter dormancy, so by the time you see the damage in spring, the infection already happened months earlier. Treatment after the fact is limited — you can core aerate the dead zones to encourage surrounding Bermuda to fill in, and you can sprig or plug new Bermuda into the bare areas in late spring once soil temperatures are above 65°F. The prevention approach is much more effective: apply a fungicide labeled for spring dead spot in the fall (September through October) before dormancy begins. Azoxystrobin or propiconazole products applied at the right timing can significantly reduce spring dead spot severity. Lawns with excessive thatch are most susceptible because thatch keeps the crown wet and provides an ideal environment for the fungus. Aggressive fall dethatching and core aeration combined with a fall fungicide application is the most effective long-term prevention program.

What Soil Amendments Does Bermuda Grass in North Texas Actually Need?

The heavy clay soils across most of North Tarrant County create specific challenges for Bermuda grass that basic fertilization alone cannot solve. Clay soil holds water but drains poorly, which means Bermuda roots sitting in saturated soil after a rain event can develop fungal issues. It also compacts easily under traffic and irrigation, which restricts oxygen to the root zone. The first amendment most DFW lawns need is lawn aeration — not a product but a mechanical process that physically breaks up compaction and creates pathways for water, air, and nutrients to reach the root zone. Beyond aeration, a soil test from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension will tell you exactly what your soil lacks. Most North Tarrant County soils test adequate on phosphorus and potassium but show high pH (7.5 to 8.2) and low iron. High pH makes iron and manganese unavailable to grass even when present in the soil — which is why chelated iron applications produce such dramatic greening in DFW lawns. Sulfur applications can gradually lower soil pH over multiple seasons, improving nutrient availability long-term. If your soil test shows severe compaction or clay hardpan issues, topdressing with a 50/50 sand-compost blend applied after core aeration can gradually improve soil structure over two to three seasons. This is not a one-application fix but a multi-year improvement program that pays off in a denser, healthier lawn that requires less water and fertilizer to look its best.

How Do You Repair Thin or Bare Spots in a Bermuda Lawn?

Thin and bare areas in Bermuda lawns have three main causes in North Texas: shade (Bermuda will thin and die in areas with less than 6 hours of direct sun), spring dead spot damage, and areas where soil compaction or poor drainage has prevented establishment. Before repairing, diagnose the cause — there is no point in resodding a shaded area that killed the original grass, or plugging into compacted hardpan that will kill the new grass too. For bare spots in full sun with good drainage, the best repair window is May through July when soil temperatures are above 65°F and Bermuda grows aggressively. Plugging (cutting 3 to 4 inch diameter cores from a healthy part of the lawn and planting them 12 inches apart in the bare area) works well for small spots. Sprigging (planting individual Bermuda sprigs) covers larger areas more economically than sod. For very large repair areas, sod is the fastest result but the most expensive option — expect $0.50 to $1.25 per square foot for sod installed. Water all repairs daily for two weeks until rooted, then reduce to a normal schedule. Fertilize lightly at three weeks with a starter fertilizer to support establishment. Most plugs and sprigs will fully fill in within one growing season if planted by June.

What Does a Full-Service Bermuda Lawn Care Program Cost in DFW?

Understanding the true cost of professional Bermuda lawn care in the DFW area helps homeowners make informed decisions about what to outsource versus handle themselves. A complete program covering mowing, edging, fertilization (3 rounds), pre-emergent weed control (2 rounds), and basic bed edging for a typical 6,000 to 8,000 square foot North Fort Worth lawn generally runs $80 to $150 per month during the growing season (April through October) and $40 to $60 per month in the off-season. Broken out individually: mowing and edging runs $40 to $75 per visit depending on lot size; aeration runs $125 to $225; each fertilization application runs $60 to $120; pre-emergent application runs $60 to $100. Bundled annual lawn care programs from local DFW companies typically offer 10 to 15 percent savings over individual service pricing. The highest-value items to outsource are pre-emergent timing (the consequences of being two weeks late are significant) and core aeration (rental equipment is not as effective as commercial-grade machines). Mowing is the task most homeowners can handle themselves cost-effectively, assuming they have time, the right mowing height knowledge, and sharp blades.

What Is the Best Bermuda Grass Variety for North Texas?

Most North Texas residential lawns grow common Bermuda grass — either seeded or established from sod — and it performs well across the region. But hybrid varieties offer improvements worth knowing about. Common Bermuda is the workhorse of DFW lawns: drought-tolerant, affordable, spreads aggressively, and recovers well from damage. It is the default choice for most homeowners and performs well without specialized care. Tifway 419 is the most popular hybrid Bermuda in the region, widely used on golf course fairways and athletic fields. It produces a denser, finer-textured turf than common Bermuda and tolerates lower mowing heights. The downside: it cannot be seeded (must be sodded or sprigged) and requires slightly more fertility to look its best. TifTuf is a newer hybrid released by the University of Georgia that offers exceptional drought tolerance — studies have shown it uses up to 38 percent less water than Tifway 419 under drought conditions. For DFW homeowners facing water restrictions and increasingly hot summers, TifTuf sod is a premium but practical upgrade when installing a new lawn. Celebration Bermuda is another hybrid gaining popularity in Texas because of its shade tolerance relative to other Bermuda varieties — it can survive in as little as 5 hours of direct sun, making it an option for partially shaded yards where common Bermuda fails. For most homeowners with established lawns, the variety question is moot — you work with what you have. But for new construction, resodding after major lawn failure, or areas where common Bermuda has repeatedly thinned, these alternatives are worth considering.

How Do You Dethatch a Bermuda Lawn and When Should You Do It?

Thatch is the layer of dead and decomposing grass stems, roots, and organic matter that accumulates between the green grass blades and the soil surface. In Bermuda grass lawns, thatch builds up faster than in most other grass species because Bermuda's aggressive stolons and rhizomes produce large amounts of organic material. A thin thatch layer (less than half an inch) is beneficial — it acts as mulch, retaining moisture and moderating soil temperature. Once thatch exceeds half an inch, it becomes a problem. Thick thatch prevents water and fertilizer from reaching the soil, creates an environment for fungal disease, and causes the Bermuda grass to root into the thatch layer rather than the soil — making it far more vulnerable to drought and heat stress. The solution is dethatching or, more effectively, core aeration. Mechanical dethatching (using a vertical mower or power rake) physically removes thatch but can stress the lawn significantly. Core aeration is less aggressive and more effective long-term — it pulls plugs from the soil, allowing air and microbes to decompose thatch naturally from below. For most North Texas lawns with thatch issues, annual core aeration in September plus a reduction in nitrogen fertilization rate is sufficient to keep thatch under control over two to three seasons. Dethatching is appropriate when a probe pushed into the lawn encounters a spongy 1 to 1.5 inch thatch layer above the soil. Timing: dethatch or aerate only during active growing season (April through September) — never in winter, when Bermuda cannot recover.

How Does Bermuda Grass Compare to St. Augustine for North Texas Homeowners?

The Bermuda versus St. Augustine decision is the most common grass selection question in DFW, and the answer depends entirely on your yard's sun exposure. If your property gets 6 or more hours of direct sun daily, Bermuda is the better choice — it handles heat, drought, and foot traffic better than St. Augustine. If significant portions of your yard are shaded by mature trees (post oaks, pecans, elms), St. Augustine is more appropriate because it tolerates partial shade where Bermuda will thin and die. Bermuda recovers from drought and damage faster, requires less water once established, and tolerates more aggressive mowing. St. Augustine stays green longer into fall and greens up earlier in spring. Bermuda is less expensive to maintain because it requires fewer fungicide treatments — St. Augustine is prone to brown patch fungus and chinch bugs in DFW, while Bermuda's main disease issues (spring dead spot, dollar spot) are more manageable with the right fall care program. Many North Texas homeowners have mixed situations: a full-sun front yard in Bermuda and a shaded back yard in St. Augustine. This is workable, though it means two different care programs with different mowing heights, fertilization timing, and chemical treatments. When starting a new lawn or reseeding a failed area, always match the grass species to your specific sun conditions rather than choosing based on price or availability alone. A lawn that matches its environment requires less water, fewer fungicide treatments, and less overall intervention to stay thick and healthy through the North Texas growing season.