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Weekly mowing with steel-edge lines and the same tech every week.

Mowed at the right height for your grass type. Sharp blades, sharp edges, surfaces blown clean. Starting $40/visit — no contracts, skip weeks anytime.

Get your free quote (945) 275-8031
Bermuda lawn mowing with steel edging by CARE
★★★★★
4.9 · 127 reviews
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Blades sharpened weekly
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Same day every week
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Same tech every visit

How Much Does Mowing and Edging Cost?

From $40 / visit

Small yard: $40 – $50  ·  Medium: $55 – $75  ·  Large: $80 – $120

No contracts. Pause or skip anytime. First visit free if you're on the fence.

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What Is Included with Every Mowing Visit?

A CARE mowing visit isn't just a mow. It's a full turf-care routine — same six steps, every time:

  • Mow at correct height — 2–2.5" for Bermuda, 3.5–4" for St. Augustine. Blade sharpened before every route.
  • Steel-edge all hardscapes — sidewalks, driveways, patios, beds. Real edger, not a string trimmer.
  • String-trim fences, trees, and odd corners
  • Blow all surfaces clean — walks, drive, porches, patio
  • Debris check — we pick up sticks, seed pods, and random yard junk before mowing. Saves your blades, saves your deck.
  • Walk the property to confirm before we leave
Why the height matters

Bermuda cut at 3"+ gets thin and weedy. St. Augustine cut at 2" gets scalped and brown. Most "mow and blow" companies use one height for every yard on the route. That's the difference between a lawn that thickens and one that thins.

What Service Plans Are Available?

We run two plans. No contracts — pause or cancel anytime.

  • Weekly mowing — April through October. The default for Bermuda and St. Augustine in North Texas. Keeps the cut under the "1/3 rule" so the lawn stays thick.
  • Bi-weekly mowing — November through March, and for slow-growth lawns. Less frequent, same quality.

Most clients start weekly and drop to bi-weekly in November automatically. We'll email before the switch.

What Add-Ons Actually Help Your Lawn?

  • Fertilization (4-step program) — seasonal feeding tuned to your grass type and soil
  • Spring aeration — core-pull aeration to break compaction and let water/air reach roots
  • Pre-emergent + post-emergent — crabgrass and broadleaf control timed to NTX weather
  • Leaf cleanup (fall) — full-yard removal, not just mulched-in leaves
  • Bush & hedge trimming — quarterly or seasonal

What we do on every visit.

  1. Walk-around + debris pick-up

    Sticks, pods, random junk. Saves blades and keeps things safe.

  2. Mow at correct height

    Bermuda 2–2.5", St. Augustine 3.5–4", Zoysia 2–3". Sharp blade, alternating patterns.

  3. String trim

    Fences, trees, beds, around AC units, gas meters, anywhere a mower can't reach.

  4. Steel edge hardscapes

    Sharp, crisp line on every sidewalk, drive, patio, bed — real edger, not a trimmer.

  5. Blow everything clean

    Walks, drive, porches, patios. Nothing tracks in.

  6. Visual check & photo

    Quick photo for our log. Any issues noted and texted.

What Are the Correct Mowing Heights for DFW Grass Types?

Height is the most impactful mowing variable for North Texas warm-season turf — one inch in either direction changes everything.

What Height Should Bermuda Grass Be Mowed?

Bermuda grass in North Texas should be mowed at 2 to 2.5 inches during the active growing season from April through October. This height keeps the turf dense and competitive against weeds, promotes lateral spread through runners, and prevents the thinning that occurs when Bermuda is left too tall. Bermuda mowed above 3 inches develops a thick thatch layer, sparse surface growth, and a shaggy appearance that no amount of edging will fix. During winter dormancy, a one-time low cut to 1.5 inches removes dead material before spring green-up.

What Height Should St. Augustine Grass Be Mowed?

St. Augustine grass requires a higher mowing height than Bermuda — 3.5 to 4 inches is the correct range for most North Texas properties. Cutting St. Augustine below 3 inches exposes the stolons, causes scalping damage, and creates entry points for brown patch and Take All Root Rot, both of which are serious problems in DFW. The taller canopy also helps St. Augustine shade out competing weeds and protects root crowns during the intense heat of a DFW summer when temperatures regularly exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

What Height Should Zoysia Grass Be Mowed?

Zoysia grass is less common in North Fort Worth than Bermuda or St. Augustine but appears in some established neighborhoods. Zoysia should be mowed at 2 to 3 inches depending on the variety — Empire and Palisades Zoysia prefer the higher end of this range, while fine-leaf varieties like Emerald Zoysia perform well when maintained shorter. Zoysia grows more slowly than Bermuda, which means mowing frequency can often be reduced during cooler months without violating the one-third rule, saving both time and money for property owners.

What Is the One-Third Rule and Why Does It Matter?

The one-third rule states that you should never remove more than one-third of the total leaf blade in a single mowing. Cutting more causes a stress response that diverts energy from root development to emergency blade regrowth. During a DFW summer when temperatures regularly exceed 100 degrees, a stressed lawn becomes vulnerable to heat damage, disease, and weed invasion within days. For Bermuda growing at a typical summer rate, this means mowing every 5 to 7 days to stay within the rule rather than letting it get tall and then hacking it back down.

Why Should You Scalp Bermuda in Early Spring?

A single low-cut scalp of Bermuda grass in late February to early March removes the brown dormant material from winter and allows direct sunlight to warm the soil, which accelerates spring green-up by 1 to 2 weeks. Scalping is a seasonal technique, not a regular practice — the goal is removing 1 to 1.5 inches of dead material down to the crown one time before the growing season begins. After scalping, the lawn transitions immediately to the normal 2 to 2.5 inch maintenance height as soon as visible green growth appears. Scalping later than mid-March can set the lawn back.

Why Do Blade Sharpness and Alternating Patterns Matter?

A dull mower blade tears grass rather than cutting cleanly, leaving ragged brown tips visible across the entire lawn surface and creating entry points for fungal disease. Sharp blades produce a clean cut that heals quickly and leaves clippings that decompose easily. Alternating the mowing direction pattern on each visit prevents the grass from developing a directional lean, which causes uneven growth and a striped appearance during dry periods. Ruts from repeated wheel tracks in the same path compact the soil and can permanently damage turf in high-clay DFW soils without regular pattern rotation.

Why Should You Never Mow Wet Grass?

Mowing wet grass causes compounding problems: clippings clump and stick to surfaces instead of dispersing evenly across the lawn, mower wheels leave ruts and compaction lines in saturated soil, wet grass bends under the blade rather than standing up for a clean cut, and the resulting uneven surface increases stress on the turf. After a North Texas thunderstorm, waiting 24 hours for the lawn to dry produces a significantly better result. During periods of prolonged spring rain, we reschedule to the next dry window and adjust frequency to compensate for any excessive growth.

What Makes Steel Blade Edging Different from String Trimmer Edging?

The tool selection determines whether hardscape edges look crisp or blurry — and whether that definition holds between visits.

What Is a Steel Blade Edger and How Does It Differ?

A steel blade edger uses a rotating metal disc to cut a clean, vertical line between turf and a hardscape surface like a sidewalk, driveway, or patio edge. The result is a sharp, defined border that stays defined between visits because the cut is perpendicular to the soil. A string trimmer held horizontally can approximate an edge but creates an irregular, sloped line that blurs within days as grass grows back at an angle. Every sidewalk and driveway edge on every CARE route receives a steel blade edger — never a string trimmer held sideways.

Which Hardscapes Should Be Steel-Edged on Every Visit?

Every concrete or paved surface that borders turf should receive a steel edge on each mowing visit without exception: front and back sidewalks, the driveway apron and curb line, patio edges, any concrete paths throughout the yard, and stepping stone borders. Landscape bed borders receive a separate rotary or bed edger treatment to create a clean V-trench between turf and mulched areas. Maintaining all hardscape and bed edges consistently is what separates properties that look professionally maintained from those that merely get mowed on a schedule.

How Does Consistent Edging Prevent Long-Term Encroachment?

Bermuda grass sends runners aggressively across sidewalks, into driveways, and over patio edges during the growing season. Without regular edging, roots and stolons establish in the cracks and joints of hardscape surfaces and become very difficult to remove. Allowing this encroachment to go unchecked for even one full growing season can require significant remediation to re-establish a clean edge. Weekly steel edging keeps the grass boundary defined and prevents the maintenance debt from accumulating into a problem that costs far more to correct than to prevent.

What Is the Correct String Trim Technique Around Trees and Fences?

String trimming around trees, fence posts, and utility structures requires care to avoid damage. Running a string trimmer repeatedly against a tree trunk causes girdling — scarring that strips the protective bark layer and can eventually kill the tree over several seasons. Proper technique keeps the trimmer head 2 to 3 inches away from woody structures and uses brief passes rather than sustained contact. Protective mulch rings around tree bases eliminate the need for close trimming near trunks entirely and are a standard component of our mulch installation service.

Why Is Blowing All Surfaces Clean the Final Step?

Leaving grass clippings and debris on walkways, driveways, and patios creates several problems that accumulate quickly. Clippings on concrete decompose and release chlorophyll and tannins that stain pavers and walkways over time — the same tannin chemistry that requires professional concrete cleaning to remove from hardscapes. Wet clippings on steps and walkways are a slip hazard. Blowing all surfaces completely clean at the end of every visit is a professional standard, not an optional extra, and takes under 5 minutes on a typical residential property.

How Do Landscape Bed Edges Differ from Hardscape Edges?

Landscape bed borders require a different tool and technique than hardscape edging. A bed edger cuts a clean V-shaped trench between turf and mulched beds, creating a defined border that contains mulch, prevents grass runners from growing into the bed, and gives the landscape a structured, maintained appearance. Bed edges should be re-cut at least twice per year — spring and fall — as Bermuda stolons advance toward the exposed bed soil. We offer bed re-edging as an add-on service during spring mulch installation or as a standalone landscape bed refresh visit.

What Mowing Mistakes Cause the Most Damage to North Texas Lawns?

Understanding these errors explains why consistent professional mowing delivers better results than irregular DIY approaches.

Why Does Mowing at the Wrong Height Thin the Lawn Over Time?

The two most common height errors in DFW are cutting Bermuda too tall and cutting St. Augustine too short. Bermuda mowed at 3 to 4 inches develops excessive thatch that blocks water from reaching roots and creates prime habitat for chinch bugs and fungal disease. St. Augustine cut at 2 to 2.5 inches exposes and damages stolons, slows lateral spread, and dramatically increases vulnerability to brown patch during the humid summer months. Using the correct height for each specific grass type is the single highest-impact variable in residential lawn care and costs nothing extra to get right.

What Does Scalping Do to a DFW Lawn During Summer?

Scalping — removing more than one-third of the blade in a single mowing — shocks the grass into a rapid recovery response. The lawn turns brown as the green leaf area is suddenly eliminated. Recovery requires energy that would otherwise go to root development, weakening the plant below ground. In the extreme heat of a DFW July, a scalped lawn has no reserve to handle thermal stress and is far more likely to die back, thin permanently, or become overrun with weeds that colonize the open canopy immediately. Scalping is the single most common cause of summer lawn failure in North Texas.

How Does Mowing the Same Pattern Cause Ruts and Grain?

Every pass of a lawn mower compresses the soil along wheel paths and causes grass blades to lean in the direction of travel. When the same pattern is repeated for months, visible ruts develop in the turf and a directional grain becomes embedded in the growth. Ruts channel rainwater across the lawn rather than allowing it to absorb evenly, which increases both runoff and dry spots. Alternating the mowing direction on each visit — horizontal one week, vertical the next, diagonal the third — prevents both problems and produces a more even, golf-course quality surface finish.

Why Do Some Lawn Services Deliver Poor Results Despite Regular Visits?

Frequency alone does not produce a good lawn. Many mow-and-blow operations use one blade height for every yard regardless of grass type, mow with blades sharpened monthly instead of weekly, skip the steel edger in favor of a string trimmer held sideways, and leave debris on hardscapes to blow away on its own. These shortcuts are invisible to a casual observer at first but accumulate into visible lawn decline within a single season. A lawn that thins despite weekly service is almost always being cut at the wrong height with compromised equipment by operators who do not distinguish between grass species.

What Happens When You Skip Mowing During Peak Growth Season?

Missing even a single weekly mowing during Bermuda's peak growing season of May through August can push the lawn above the one-third threshold within 5 to 7 days. When a catch-up mowing removes the excess in one pass, the lawn is effectively scalped regardless of the blade height setting. The grass browns, diverts energy from roots to recovery, and becomes vulnerable to fungal disease during the humid DFW summer. For properties on a bi-weekly schedule during peak season, the cut height should be raised 0.5 inches above the optimal setting to reduce the shock of removing a larger volume of growth with each visit.

Why Is the Walk-Around Before Mowing Not Optional?

A brief property walk before starting the mower prevents blade damage, prevents projectile hazards, and catches conditions that change the mowing plan. Sticks, rocks, large seed pods from pecan or hackberry trees, children's toys, irrigation heads standing above grade, and hose connections left in the grass all damage mower blades or become dangerous projectiles when struck at mowing speed. In North Texas, fire ant mounds can appear overnight in moist conditions and must be avoided until treated. A two-minute walk-around before every mowing visit is one of the most cost-effective practices in professional lawn care, saving significant equipment repair costs and liability exposure.

How Does Grass Clipping Management Affect DFW Lawn Fertility?

Mulching grass clippings back into the lawn rather than bagging them returns approximately 25 percent of the nutrients applied through fertilization each year. Clippings are roughly 4 percent nitrogen by weight and decompose within 5 to 7 days under DFW summer conditions, releasing nitrogen directly into the thatch and soil surface. This natural fertilization effect means lawns that consistently mulch their clippings require fewer supplemental fertilizer applications per year to maintain the same color and density. The only situations where bagging is preferable to mulching are when the lawn is being treated for active fungal disease, when clipping volume is excessive due to a skipped mowing, or when the homeowner specifically prefers the appearance of a freshly clipped surface without visible clippings.

How Do You Start Weekly Lawn Care?

First visit is free. Cancel anytime if we're not the best you've had.

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How Much Does Mowing and Edging Cost?

Based on lot size and yard complexity. Priced by the visit, not the hour.

Yard sizePer-visit price
Small (under 5,000 sq ft)$40 – $50
Medium (5,000 – 10,000 sq ft)$55 – $75
Large (10,000 – 20,000 sq ft)$80 – $120
Acreage (20,000+ sq ft)$120+
Bi-weekly (off-season)Same base, +$10/visit

See our full service menu for fertilization, aeration, and weed-control pricing.

What Are the Most Frequently Asked Questions?

Do I have to sign a contract?
No. Pause or cancel anytime with a text. We earn your business every week.
Same tech every week?
Yes. Your gate code, your dog's name, the corner where your flower bed starts — same person every Tuesday.
What happens when it rains?
We push to the next dry day, never skip the week (unless you want). Bermuda bounces back from a 1-day delay; a 2-week gap hurts the lawn.
Do you bag clippings?
Mulch by default (better for the soil). Bagging is +$10/visit if you want it. Spring cleanup bags included for free.
Can I skip a week if I'm traveling?
Yes. Text us, no penalty. We'd rather you skip than come home to a lawn you didn't want mowed.

What Other Lawn Care Services Does CARE Offer?

Ready for a sharper lawn?

Local, insured, family-owned. Real prices. No runaround.

Start weekly serviceor (945) 275-8031